WHEN a group of Babas and Nyonyas, with the men in batik and the women in elegant kebayas, gathered at Simple Café on Jalan Dato Koya in George Town for nasi lemak and teh tarik recently, they naturally drew curiosity from other patrons and passers-by.
More than just a casual meeting by the Ronggeng Rhapsody members, their gathering was a celebration of the recent inscription of the kebaya and Malaysia’s breakfast culture on Unesco’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Organising chairman Dr Jewel Tan explained that they chose to hold a simple celebration due to the limited awareness of Unesco’s recognition of the kebaya on Dec 4 and Malaysia’s food culture – such as nasi lemak, roti canai and teh tarik – on Dec 5 during the 19th Session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage held in Asuncion, Paraguay.
“The traditional kebaya has evolved over the ages. While we cherish its classic heritage look, we must innovate to make it more contemporary and appealing to the younger generation,” said Dr Tan, a dentist by profession.
“We aim to develop and promote the kebaya so that the younger generation will embrace it, making it uniquely their own. Our vision is to see the kebaya worn daily, not just something reserved for weddings.”
To mark the occasion, a kebaya exhibition was held at the nearby Georgetown Mansion, following the breakfast on the lovely morning of December 27, 2024. The exhibition featured kebayas crafted by guest of honour, Lim Yu Lin from Ang Eng Nyonya Kebaya, including the one that she presented at the Unesco meeting in Paraguay.
During the event, Yu Lin also took the opportunity to launch her book, The Journey of Ang Eng Nyonya Kebaya Makers Since 1955.
The kebaya application to Unesco was a joint effort by five countries – Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Thailand and Brunei.
Yu Lin, one of the 30 representatives from these countries who attended the Unesco meeting, recounted the excitement of the announcement.
“When Unesco announced the kebaya’s inscription on the list, we were all ecstatic.
“Our group was the largest delegation in Paraguay, and we let out the loudest victory cry. Witnessing five countries collaborate was truly eye-opening. The moment the kebaya was successfully inscribed, everyone in the team felt an overwhelming sense of pride. It moved us to tears, and we hugged each other. It was a historical moment, and I feel incredibly proud to have been part of it,” Yu Lin recalled.
Originally from Kedah and now settled in Kuala Lumpur, Yu Lin paid tribute to all those who contributed their efforts, particularly the Nyonya community, to preserve the spirit of the kebaya through centuries.
She also acknowledged the contributions of Peranakan associations from Penang, Melaka, Kuala Lumpur, Selangor, Phuket, and beyond for promoting kebaya culture and encouraging women to wear the traditional attire.
Yu Lin further expressed gratitude for the unwavering support of the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture (Motac) and the National Heritage Department, which led the documentation process for the multinational nomination of the kebaya to Unesco.
When the National Heritage Department invited Yu Lin to participate in the Unesco initiative, the first thing that came to her mind was to create something meaningful for the five countries involved.
“These five countries are like a big family. So, I began designing a kebaya to represent all of them,” Yu Lin explained. “I incorporated the national flowers of each country into the design, along with motifs of five women in kebayas adorned with the colours of their national flags. At the edge of the kebaya, I inscribed the word ‘Unesco’ in calligraphy.”
It took Yu Lin about three weeks to complete the kebaya, which was showcased at the Unesco exhibition. The piece garnered significant attention and admiration in Paraguay and continued to captivate audiences at the kebaya exhibition held at Georgetown Mansion, where it was worn by Dr Jewel Tan.
“Every kebaya maker brings their own unique skills and creativity. Creating a kebaya is like crafting a piece of art, but unlike a drawing, a kebaya can be worn and appreciated. I want to make each kebaya an enduring art piece, something that can be cherished and kept for a long time – something truly meaningful to the wearer,” Yu Lin added.
Yu Lin also thanked Datuk Lilian Tong, an author and the museum director of Peranakan Mansion, for inviting her to the event and for the opportunity to launch her debut book.
During the Q&A session at the book launch, Yu Lin shared that she is the third generation to continue the Ang Eng kebaya business, which was established in Alor Setar by her grandmother, the late Lim Wah Choon, in 1955.
“The one who motivated me to come out with the book is actually my late mother, Ong Geok Lean. She often talked about writing a book on Ang Eng because of the many stories behind it,” Yu Lin revealed.
“She recounted the hard work my grandmother devoted to crafting Nyonya kebayas, the customers she served, and the journey of the business. The legacy was passed down to my mother and aunty, and as I watched them making kebayas, I followed in their footsteps. Now, I continue this tradition with my shop in Ampang.
“Unfortunately, my mother never had the chance to write the book herself, so I wanted to fulfil her dream. I tried to record everything she shared with me, preserving those stories. I hope this book will inspire younger generations to take up this challenging business and carry on the authentic art of making kebayas,” Yu Lin said.
The 188-page book, written by Peter Soh, is essentially a coffee table book featuring a captivating collection of Nyonya kebayas produced by Ang Eng. It showcases the evolution of kebaya design across three generations.
“There are already quite a number of books on kebaya in the market. We aimed to make ours reader-friendly, highlighting how kebaya has evolved over three generations, the step-by-step process of making it, the embroidery motifs, and the stories behind them.
“The hardcover book also commemorates 70 years of family history through Ang Eng, which continues to produce kebayas,” said Soh, who has contributed articles to Penang Monthly since 2018.
The Journey of Ang Eng is Soh’s first book, which took about four months to complete, starting in August last year.
“It’s quite surreal, beginning the year with an article on kebaya published in Penang Monthly and ending it with a book. From its conceptualisation to the finished product, this project has been all about teamwork, collaborating with Yu Lin, the photographer, and the graphic designer,” Soh said.
Lillian Tong remarked that Yu Lin’s grandmother must have faced significant challenges as a woman running a business for women in the 1950s.
“That is truly an inspiration for all women. Kebaya makers need people to wear their creations, and those who desire kebayas need artisans. Without both, the culture would die. The artisans and the community are very important to keep this tradition alive,” Tong said.
Inspired by the kebaya’s role as a unifying element across five countries – Brunei, Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, and Malaysia – Tong announced plans to collaborate with the Penang Tourist Guide Association to host a talk in February. The talk will focus on the kebaya’s historical significance and its role in promoting women’s freedom and liberation.
To conclude the kebaya exhibition and book launch, a lively ronggeng dance took place, with members and guests joining the floor with enthusiasm, followed by a photo session.
Story by K.H. Ong
Pix by Ahmad Adil Muhamad