NESTLED in the heart of Penang’s historical Armenian Street, the Jawi House Cafe Gallery is more than just a dining destination; it is a vibrant hub for culture, heritage, and history.
At the helm of this establishment is Chef Nurilkarim Razha, a 35-year-old culinary artist whose passion for preserving the Jawi Peranakan legacy has transformed his family’s restaurant into a beloved local gem.
Established in 2013 by Chef Nurilkarim’s mother, Professor Datuk Dr Wazir Jahan Karim, Jawi House Cafe Gallery was born out of her desire to create a space where people could learn about the rich heritage of the Jawi Peranakan community.
“At the time, my mother was conducting research on the Jawi Peranakan, and she wanted a place where people could come and learn about its history, background, and also explore her published works on the subject,” Chef Nurilkarim shared with Buletin Mutiara during an interview session at the restaurant recently.
He added the cafe was originally conceived as a gallery to showcase his mother’s research and promote Penang’s cultural heritage.
“The small space housed exhibitions on the history and lifestyle of the Melayu Tanjong (the Malays of Penang) before British colonisation, including paintings, images, and books.
“In its early days, the cafe’s menu was simple, featuring light bites like roti surai and cucur udang, with a small selection of dishes rooted in the Jawi Peranakan tradition.
“But as the popularity of the cafe grew, so did its menu. Not long after, we started getting more customers, and we expanded our offerings based on my mother’s cookbook, Feasts of Penang,” said Chef Nurilkarim.
According to him, the restaurant soon became known for its authentic and flavorful dishes like nasi briyani, nasi dalca, and other signature dishes from the book.
“As the cafe’s culinary focus took centre stage, the gallery exhibitions were phased out, allowing the restaurant to concentrate fully on serving heritage cuisine.
“The uniqueness of Jawi House Cafe Gallery lies in its distinctive menu, which blends the flavours of Malay, Punjabi, and Pakistani influences,” he said.
Chef Nurilkarim’s mother, who is of Punjabi-Pakistani descent, incorporated her mixed heritage into the cuisine, resulting in dishes that are a harmonious blend of spices and local herbs.
“We focus on Jawi Peranakan food, which is prepared with spices like cumin, coriander, paprika, chilli, pepper, and turmeric, all while highlighting local herbs and aromatic shoots,” Chef Nurilkarim explained.
Chef Nurilkarim highlighted that over the years, Jawi House Cafe Gallery has curated a menu that now boasts over 60 dishes, including starters, desserts, and a variety of vegetarian options to cater to the growing demand from international tourists.
“Popular items on the menu include nasi lemuni, daging masak hitam, ayam rose, lamb briyani, kuih serabai, laksa, and of course, the classic cucur udang.
“We have had an overwhelming response from our customers, particularly tourists from South America, Europe, and China.
“The cafe has become a go-to spot for both locals and travellers seeking an authentic taste of Penang’s Jawi Peranakan heritage,” said Chef Nurilkarim.
Jawi House Cafe Gallery operates from 11am to 9:30pm daily, except on Tuesdays.
With its inviting atmosphere and dedication to preserving culinary traditions, Jawi House Cafe Gallery continues to thrive, offering diners a memorable experience that goes beyond just a meal—it’s a journey into the heart of Penang’s rich and diverse heritage.
For Chef Nurilkarim and his family, the café represents more than a business; it is a continuation of his mother’s legacy, a celebration of cultural identity, and a testament to the power of food in preserving history.
Story by Riadz Akmal
Pix by Adleena Rahayu Ahmad Radzi